Wednesday, January 26, 2011

India--Into the Mystic

Oh my, it is already 3 weeks now in India.  There is so much I have seen and experienced.  Where do I begin??  Since I ended with the Kite Festival, I will begin there.  What a delightful experience that was.  The day started with children waking early with anticipation--much like Christmas!  Everyone had spent much time selecting their kites and glass infusing their strings as they prepared for the battle of the kites in the skies.  The entire day was spent flying kites from the rooftops as families and friends gathered for group  parties to  celebrate the day.  There was also much music, great food, and laughter.  As I strolled through some neighborhoods, I was continually invited to come and join quite a few parties.  Some would even come from their roofs to try to coerce me to join them.  I did visit a few and tried my hand at kite flying from a standing position on a roof.  Fortunately, I didn't crash my kites, but I definitely need lots of instruction!  At evening time, kites were sent up to the skies with candles, which was a magical site.  Such a beautiful thing to see.  You can go on the internet and search for India kite  festivals  and see this.  It is worth the time to do.

I am still in awe of this interesting place.  There are no frills here, and if you are not fairly healthy or strong, it is incredibly challenging to manage.  I was sitting at a restaurant the other day that was partially underground and required going down steps to enter it.  As I sit there, I watched this man come down the stairs.  The amazing part was that he had no legs from the torso down, and was walking with his hands in a pair of shoes. Since there is so much dirt here, this is somewhat understandable.   He managed this by making his arms straight while he kept his body also hanging down straight between his arms.  Unbelievable!!  I thought about how much the U.S. has made strides in the last years for physically challenged people to be able to more easily manage getting around in society.  Here, there are the rare but uneven sidewalks, uneven or broken structures with no ramps, and in the chaotic streets you take your life in your hands, and no elevators. Had he had a wheelchair, he still would still not have been able to maneuver it around--probably even less than he was getting around with his present method.  So he obviously made a choice about his life--be free to live his life and go where he wants or be a prisoner to his disability.  I didn't observe any "pity parties" in his energy--just strength and confidence!

I am also still amazed at what these women can carry on their heads. One day I observed a women carrying what looked like a 1/4 pallet of brick on her head.  Ouch, my neck!!  And a few days later, a woman was carrying 3 tiers of very large stainless steel vessel (almost as tall as she) on her head as she carried what was about 8 heavy looking stainless pails of milk in her hands.  And of course, all in their beautiful saris and their erect postures!!  Now this must be some intensive level of training.  Sure is more masterful than those silly ones where girls are trained to walk proper with a few books on their heads!! We need to update our standards!!!!!

The other unbelievable thing that I found out recently is that teachers here are somewhat appointed to their jobs.  They are some of the highest paying jobs around (even though that isn't saying much) , they pretty much cannot be fired and have those jobs for life.  What is so interesting is that they have no accountability what so ever!!  My understanding is that most have several other jobs that they go to instead, collect their teachers salaries and they hire unqualified people, that they pay a very small amount, to go teach their classes for them.  And those  people may show up--or not!  No accountability or standards!  Fortunately, there are a  few that actually do care and take their responsibility seriously to teach the kids.     Also because of severe corporal punishment  from many teachers, this makes many kids afraid to attend school.  Since education is not highly regarded and encouraged from poor families that would instead have their children working to help support the family income, positive changes through education are challenging at most, but sorely needed.  As a society, we must keep trying to effect this needed positive change.  Part of what my organization, Shaishav, does is educate the children of their rights, including their right to education, and is helping to empower children to stand up and fight for their rights, since their families cannot or will not do this in many cases.  I have already witnessed this, and it is a beautiful thing! India has the highest number of child labor in the world.  Every 4th child is in labor here.  It is estimated that there are 110 million child labors in this country.  They work very hard at a very young age for long hours with very little pay.  They experience no play, recreation, education or basic rights, much less the toll this takes on their health and development.  Even though it is now illegal for a child in this country under the age of 14 to work (a very new law), it is still not enforced and is overlooked.   We believe that Healthy Children=Healthy Adults=Healthy Societies!!

And whole families are here living on the hard packed dirt of the side of the road totally exposed to the elements.  The sun is very tense during the days, and many women and babies are exposed to this without any protection.  A few have managed to find a bit of plastic or a piece of fabric to try to hang over them during this time.  Some have managed to find a blanket or fabric to lay on the ground for sleeping.  Some find their bed is actually the hard dirt.  Many of these children are so incredibly dirt encrusted that it is hard to believe it is a real child.  I cannot imagine their lack of food, water and resources.  I observed a women the other day that had somehow managed to find a precious pail of water and was trying to bath her 3 very young children with it.  I was lamenting to myself earlier that day that I had been missing my hot showers,  instead of my now daily cold one, and had also lamented that I needed a nice thick and soft towel--one that had enough fabric that it would actually be able to take the moisture off of my body. In the scheme of things------!!!!!     Funny how quickly my perspectives change these days!!!

I am now a registered official citizen of Bhavnagar, India.  That was an interesting experience.  I had to make 2 trips to the "scary" police department, to be questioned over and over, and complete more volumes of documentation--even though the India Consulate had approved my Visa.  It was initially a little intimidating, as I sat there with tiny mice running across my feet, but I decided to just relax and make it actually a kind of fun experience.  In this part of the world, the men (especially at the police department) are not use to outgoing, fun, confident women.  But my jovial, playful spirit won them over.  Not only did I get my residency, they waived my having to leave India in 6 months for a couple of day, and told me that I can go ahead and request to extend for 5 years beyond.  I also have the phone number of the policeman, that processed my papers, should I need anything at all.  One person really can change the energy in a space!!

One of my highlights lately is,  I helped train and facilitate an incredible event for 1200 of this areas poorest children this past Sunday, January 23rd.  Shaishav bused them in from their communities for the entire day as a  celebration for them.  They were  engaged in Play for Peace cooperative games of learning and applying different  life skills,  they learned about the differences in all of these diverse groups and how to interact  peacefully together,  they learned more effective ways to communicate together, and they listened to powerful life and success stories from various business people in the community.  A marching band performed, and there was also group singing activities,  good food, and a fun time had by all.  Some of these children were tribal and brought in from their villages.  Many, even though teenagers, had never stepped outside their villages, had seen the sea, traffic, or buildings.  This was hugely expansive for them to observe and participate.  We kept some of these extreme groups overnight, so they could so sightseeing the next day.  One of the things they requested was "to meet and talk with the white American woman".  That must mean me??  I  met with them for quite a while the next day.   I was totally delighted to be able to spend time with them, answer their questions about me and America, share pictures of Zoe (most of you know my beloved Zoe and her varied wardrobe), as well as ask them many questions that I was curious about.  Unfortunately most of this was done through my interpreter.   I have been invited to come to their village for a visit.  I am most definitely excited about that and look forward to the experience of not only visiting them, but of teaching them.

So I will close this Blog for now.  I did get a bike last week which is giving me more freedom to get around, instead of depending on my scooter rides or taking a rickshaw.  I have so far managed to dodge everything and everyone on the streets and lived another week to tell of it.  Pretty scary just the same!!  My bike is an old rickety girl and I like her that way.  However she is sporting a nice new seat, lock  and kickstand.  Since she is a rusty orange sort of color--I have lovingly named her "Chili Masala".   I will also  be starting to learn more than just a few words of Gujarati as I finally start formal classes.  I look forward to passing a few of them on to you.  Chemchho means" hello".  Majama means "I'm fine or ok",  and aavjo (pronounced the aav like the 1st part of ouch, and add  the jo) means "goodbye" And with that I will also say goodbye for now.  I hope that you are enjoying my tales and facts of India.

Namaste,
Kathryn Kylee



Wednesday, January 12, 2011

New Beginnings in India

Hello Dear Friends,
I have just completed my 1st week in India.  What an interesting, diverse, wild and exotic place.  It is true what I was told about the hospitality of these beautiful people.  Here in Bhavnagar, life is very basic, old world, chaotic, hard, but yet magical all in one.  I was picked up at the small airport by Parul from Shaishav in a local Rickshaw.  Me and all my 3 bags, camera bag & carry-on bag.  There are very few autos here (which are expensive and rarely used), just foot traffic, bicycles, scooters, and rickshaws---all trying to dodge the numerous and many large cows, goats, pigs, & dogs in the roads--with what seems to be very little road rules.  Appears to be somewhat dangerous and chaotic--even to cross the street.  So much for my 1st thought of maybe getting my own scooter.  Not that brave yet!!  Most of my travel is on the back of a scooter, which I am now bravely enjoying.  It allows me to feel that I am exposed, part-of and in the pulse of life here.

The main streets are paved here, because it is so dry and there is no grass, the dirt and dust pretty much covers everything.  There is always an interesting haze of dust and fumes in the air, as well as the mixed smells of decay, exotic spices, and the occasional incenses from the sidewalk temples.  It would be easy for some to only see strife, hardship, dirt, oppression and scarcity here, and that would be very easy to do.  But if one opens their eyes and really looks, you can also see all of the incredible beauty here.  There is an interesting pulse and vibrancy to the life here.  The people and their hearts are beautiful, the food is amazing, the warmth & friendliness & sharing is lovely, the sense of community& simpleness of life is inviting, the colors of the woman's saris are magical, the markets are fascinating, and the smell of the night jasmine as you walk the streets at night  are hypnotic!  And the real magic starts at night.  The energy changes, yet I cannot explain the difference.  The markets at night are alive, active and magical--what I think captures the real pulse of India.    It feels like something out of a movie--dark, mysterious and forbidden--yet exotic, inviting and compelling all at once.  It is one of my favorite experiences to just fill up all of the senses.

The food here is amazing, and everyone is eager to constantly feed me and take me home to meet their families. The Shaishav staff now calls me Kathrynben.  Ben means lovingly "my sister".  I just love that!!     I have also become addicted to the Marsala/Ginger Chai.  How could anyone live a day without it??  There are stands everywhere, so I can enjoy it throughout the day wherever I go.  Managing to not gain weight will be a challenge here, and fortunately I LOVE spicy fresh homemade foods.  Meals here are definitely a social experience, sometimes spreading out on the floor "picnic" style and sharing all the lovingly prepared delights.    Finding resources is a challenge however.  No supermarkets here!!  So, you have to travel far and wide (if you know where to go) to get what you need, then figure out how to bring it home if it is too much to carry.  I have not learned how to carry everything on my head like the woman here.  And there is very little capacity to store things at home--IF you are lucky enough to have a small refrigerator.   I finally got a small one after 5 days.  Funny how little I really needed it.  And how strange that I keep looking for my paper towels and plastic wrap!!  

 I have blown out several of my electrical items already, so there are many things I need to figure out--or just let go of!!!  Forget blow drying my hair.   There is NO Wifi in town, so it took me a whole week to finally get to a technical computer store, get an external modem, and then it took 14 technical guys 1 1/2 hr to figure out how to install it in my Mac computer so it would work.  They had never seen a Mac, so they were all fascinated with it, and everyone stopped to participate on being part of the learning.  SO now I have my beloved computer--just VERY slow speed.  Patience, which I was needing to work on, will be one of my greatest new assets and learnings.  Also I am learning that it is impossible to plan or schedule my days--something I need to get a better handle on.  As soon as I "think" I have my next day scheduled, it gets totally changed and turned upside down.  And forget scheduling an "exact time" for a meeting.  I thought "Island Time" was challenging,  but this is at a new level.  Just breathe, Kathrynben!

It is amazing how quickly one can adapt to things, and how little we really need to survive quite well.  I am already enjoying this sparse, simple life.  It frees one up to be in community.  The Indians are rarely alone and work very long hours into the night.  I have a hard time convincing them I need "down time" or "alone time", a concept they do not understand. "You want to be alone and just read--how interesting"??!!   In this remote part  of the world, very few Westerners visit, so a white skinned, single American woman living among them is a great curiosity and fascination to them.  I visited some of the children in the slums yesterday and spent some time playing with them, and singing an American song for them. They are excited that I will be among them for at least a year.   They all wanted to feel my white skin.  Some had never seen a white skinned person before.  I really look forward to working in this community with teaching and empowering these children.  Children here are very undervalued and expendable, and many have not been afforded much, if any, education. This is especially true for girl children.  Their only perceived value, by many, is for them to get married, have children and work at home.  Why would they need education for that??  And because of that perception, many girl children do not survive childhood because they are also not valued enough to receive medical help.   Instead many have only known hard work in the factories since a very early age.   There are children's rights, but few people are enforcing them.  Shaishav was an organization created to teach these very poor children what their rights are and how to stand up for them.  It is an amazing and loving grass roots effort that I am glad to be part of.  Just looking into the bright smiles and eyes of these beautiful faces and hearing their laughter, how could anyone not see value in these young lives?  However, when families are in crisis to just find food and basic survival needs, it is a challenge for them to understand how to participate in helping to break that cycle--or at least break it for their children.  I thought I had seen the worst of things when I visited the slums.  Now I know different.  At least in the slums, there is a roof over their heads, and usually 1 mattress on the floor for the whole family to sleep on.  I have now witnessed families living on the sidewalks at night with dirt encrusted children that have never had a bath.  They have no protection from the elements, have to continually move, forage for sticks or coal from the rubbish to burn at night on the sidewalks for warmth or to cook whatever food remnants they can find from the trash in the streets. It is hard to believe with so much abundance in the world that anyone lives in those conditions.   I wondered--what if I had been a child born to those circumstances??? And child trafficking is still rampant here.  Over 40,000 children are kidnapped every year for slave labor, sex, etc and never found.  Is this really 2011???  There is so much work to be done here!  

On a happier note, tomorrow is the big annual Kite Flying Festival.  This is a ritual that has been famous for a long time.  If you have read the book The Kite Runner, you will know about this ritual.  For weeks the skies have been filled with colorful kites as children practiced their kite flying skills.  Strings are infused with broken glass so that kite fights can be battled.  An accomplished flyer can navigate their kites and strings to cut their opponents string and "down" their kite.  This goes on through the night with some kites being flown with lanterns in the sky.  The last kite flying is the well respected winner!!  A much coveted title!!  I am looking forward to experiencing this and taking lots of pictures.  Maybe next year I will be ready to join the battle.

This completes my post for my 1st magical week in India.  I hope you will enjoy sharing in my experiences and pictures.  It is going to be an amazing year indeed!!
Namaste,
Kathrynben